From sewing techniques to self-techniques

inventing fashion with Michel Foucault

Authors

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.5965/1982615x19472026077

Keywords:

fashion, technique, Michel Foucault

Abstract

This work investigates the relationships between fashion, technique, and philosophical thought, based on the development of an authorial collection composed of twenty looks, divided into four conceptual families, inspired by the work of Michel Foucault. The objective of this article is to present the development of this collection and to reflect on how fashion, as a language and technical practice, can incorporate theoretical and conceptual discourses, in this case, regarding Foucault’s concepts of power, control, panopticism, discipline, subjectivity, resistance, truth, and parrhesia. This is possibly the first authorial fashion collection to use Michel Foucault’s work as a conceptual and aesthetic axis, proposing an unprecedented dialogue between Foucaultian thought and creative processes in the fashion field. The methodology adopted follows the principles proposed by Doris Treptow for the development of fashion collections, combining trend research, target audience definition, color palette, material selection, and garment construction. The analyses were conducted using photographs of the looks created, allowing us to observe how Foucaultian concepts were translated into form, texture, and modeling using fashion techniques. The results indicate that fashion can act as a critical and expressive medium, capable of destabilizing social conventions, fostering the emergence of new subjectivities, and engendering aesthetic experiences committed to thought. Thus, the study contributes to expanding the possible connections between theory and practice, inserting fashion creation into the realm of conceptual elaborations and debates about the techniques that constitute it.

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Author Biographies

Marcelino Gomes dos Santos, Universidade Federal de Juiz de Fora

He holds a degree in Fashion Design Technology from the Federal Institute of Education, Science, and Technology of Rio Grande do Norte (IFRN) and a degree in Literature from the Center for Higher Education of Seridó (CERES) at the Federal University of Rio Grande do Norte (UFRN). He also completed international academic mobility at the Faculty of Letters of the University of Coimbra (FLUC) in Portugal. He holds a Master's degree in History from the Graduate Program in History at UFRN/CERES, under the supervision of Prof. Dr. Durval Muniz de Albuquerque Júnior. 

Durval Muniz de Albuquerque Júnior, Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte

He holds a Bachelor's Degree in History from the State University of Paraíba (1982), a Master's Degree in History from the State University of Campinas (1988), and a PhD in History from the State University of Campinas (1994). He holds a Post-Doctorate in Education from the University of Barcelona and in Theory and Philosophy of History from the University of Coimbra. He is a retired full professor at the Federal University of Rio Grande do Norte. He is a permanent professor in the Graduate Programs in History at the Federal University of Pernambuco and the Federal University of Rio Grande do Norte. He is a collaborating professor in the Graduate Program in History at CERES (Caicó-RN). He holds a Research Productivity Scholarship 1A from the National Council for Scientific and Technological Development (CNPq). He is President of the Brazilian Society of Theory and History of Historiography, from 2024 to 2027.

Aline Gabriel Freire, Universidade Potiguar

Professor. Textile Engineer graduated from the Federal University of Rio Grande do Norte (UFRN). Master's degree in Textile Engineering from the Graduate Program in Textile Engineering (UFRN). Fashion designer from Unifatecie (Unifatecie). Specialist in Fashion Design from Unyleya College. Fashion designer graduated from the National Service for Industrial Training (SENAI). Postgraduate degree in Occupational Safety Engineering (UNP). Professor at the Universidade Potiguar (Potiguar University) in the areas of fashion, textile, and communication design. Teaching ambassador for Fashion Revolution in Natal, RN, since 2019.

References

CIDREIRA, Renata Pitombo. A moda enquanto manifestação simbólica. In: O sentido e a época. Salvador: Edufba, 1995.

TREPTOW, Doris. Inventando moda: planejamento de coleção. 5. ed. São Paulo: Edição da Autora, 2013.

FLUSSER, Vilém. 1985. Filosofia da caixa preta. São Paulo: Hucitec, ١٩٨٥.

FOUCAULT, Michel. Vigiar e Punir: nascimento da prisão. 14. ed. Petrópolis: Vozes, 1995.

FOUCAULT, Michel. Microfísica do poder. 9. ed. Rio de Janeiro: Graal, 1997.

FOUCAULT, Michel. A hermenêutica do sujeito. São Paulo: Martins Fontes, ١٩٩٦.

FOUCAULT, Michel. O governo de si e dos outros. Rio de Janeiro: Forense Universitária, 2001.

Published

2026-01-01

How to Cite

SANTOS, Marcelino Gomes dos; ALBUQUERQUE JÚNIOR, Durval Muniz de; FREIRE, Aline Gabriel. From sewing techniques to self-techniques: inventing fashion with Michel Foucault. ModaPalavra e-periódico, Florianópolis, v. 19, n. 47, p. 77–138, 2026. DOI: 10.5965/1982615x19472026077. Disponível em: https://www.periodicos.udesc.br/index.php/modapalavra/article/view/27559. Acesso em: 9 jan. 2026.

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